Oslo Airport, Gardermoen (OSL) is sleek, modern, and efficient, the kind of place travel guides like to praise. On paper, it has everything an international airport should offer. In practice, it rarely feels welcoming.
The first thing that strikes me is the cost. Even by Norwegian standards, food and drinks inside the airport are excessive. I sometimes buy at duty-free, since Norway itself is expensive, but otherwise, the inflated charges make OSL feel less like a gateway to the world and more like a trap for your wallet.
On the public side of the terminal, before security when departing and after exiting customs on arrival, the halls are barren and offer little encouragement for conversation or comfort. It feels deliberate, as if passengers are discouraged from lingering. This is a sad contrast to the old Fornebu Airport, which, at least in my memory, had a more social and human feel. As a child, I could watch planes taxi, take off, and land. At OSL, aircraft are hidden, reserved only for those past security, as if flight itself were a secret. The magic is gone and has been replaced by the cold efficiency of a processing center.
Security checks can be frustrating, although I usually travel at less busy times and avoid the worst queues. More noticeable is how the airport shuts down at night. Late or delayed flights leave the terminal silent. Shops and restaurants close, and passengers sit in empty halls with nothing to do but wait. I have spent hours in that kind of silence, restless, frustrated, and resentful that the airport seems indifferent to travelers who arrive late, miss connections, or are simply stranded.
Immigration adds another layer of stress. Norway is part of the Schengen area, yet on a few occasions, especially when transferring from Africa, I have seen officers board the plane before passengers even disembark, even on Schengen flights. While meant as an intelligence-led procedure, it feels invasive and targeted. It does little to make the airport, or the country, feel welcoming.
Passenger traffic at OSL has steadily recovered, approaching pre-pandemic levels. International flights lead the rebound, often fully booked on busy days. OSL connects Norway to destinations including New York (JFK) and seasonal U.S. cities via SAS and Norse Atlantic Airways, as well as Bangkok (BKK), Phuket (HKT), Doha (DOH), Dubai (DXB), and Addis Ababa (ADD). For real-time departures and arrivals, I usually check:
Transfers at OSL can be straightforward or confusing. Schengen connections are seamless, with baggage moved automatically and no extra screening. International-to-domestic or Schengen transfers are more complicated: you collect baggage, exit security, re-check bags, and clear security again. International-to-international non-Schengen transfers can be messy too, as the airport is not designed for them, and passengers often need border control guidance. Some airlines offer bypass programs, but these are inconsistent.
Getting to and from OSL is another mixed experience. The Flytoget airport train is fast but overpriced, clearly aimed at business travelers with expense accounts. It is ironic to see such class-based separation in a country once built on egalitarian ideals. I prefer the regular Vy train: only four minutes slower, far more affordable, and with a free transfer in town for an hour after arrival. Comfort is similar on both, depending on how crowded they are.
If staying in Oslo, it is worth downloading the Ruter app and purchasing a period ticket for Zone 1 (Oslo city center). Activate it, then buy an add-on for the airport trip. The learning curve is steep, but public transport in Oslo is otherwise excellent. A Vy ticket also provides enough time to change transport in the city center on the way to a final destination in Oslo (zone 1).
Buses connect OSL with several places, but if you are heading into Oslo, the train is usually the best option. If your destination is outside the city, however, a bus may be worth checking.
Ultimately, OSL is Norway’s global gateway, and in many ways, it fulfills that role. One contrast that I find striking about the airport is the design. It nods to nature with wood and natural light, yet it manages to strip away the warmth and vitality that nature should provide. Additionally, high prices, sterile halls, and a lack of late-evening services overshadow its strengths. Transfers can be confusing, and immigration procedures sometimes feel intrusive. OSL moves people efficiently, but rarely makes them feel welcome.
